Starter locs are the foundation stage of a loc journey, where hair begins the process of matting and forming into dreadlocks. Whether you're going for traditional locs, sisterlocks, or freeform, this stage is all about patience and care. The hair is often twisted, braided, or coiled to encourage it to lock up, and it can take several months for the locs to fully form. How you start your locs plays a huge role in how they develop, making this an important decision for anyone considering the style.
Types of Starter Locs and How to Make Them at Home
1. Two-Strand Twists
One of the most popular methods for starting locs is the two-strand twist method. This technique involves dividing your hair into sections and twisting two strands together to form each loc. The twists are left in, and over time, they begin to lock and form mature locs.
Who It’s For:
Two-strand twists are great for people with curly or coily hair types (especially 3C and 4A-4C). The texture of the hair helps the twists hold and lock faster. It's also a fantastic option for those who want their locs to have a uniform and neat appearance, particularly in the beginning stages.
How to Start:
- Prepare Your Hair: Begin with clean, slightly damp hair. Wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo to remove any product buildup, ensuring that your scalp and strands are clean and ready for the locking process.
- Section Your Hair: Divide your hair into sections according to the size you want your locs to be. Smaller sections will create thinner locs, while larger sections will give you thicker locs. Use clips or hair ties to hold the sections in place while you work.
- Twist Two Strands Together: Take two strands from one of the sections and twist them tightly from root to tip. Keep the tension even throughout the twist to ensure uniformity. You don’t need any additional products unless your hair needs help holding the twist. If so, use a light gel or cream designed for natural hair.
- Repeat for Each Section: Continue twisting each section of hair until your entire head is done.
- Maintenance: After completing the two-strand twists, allow them to lock naturally over time. You’ll need to retwist your roots every 4-6 weeks to maintain the locs as they grow out.
Tips:
- Two-strand twists can unravel, especially in the early stages, so be gentle when washing or styling your hair. Using a satin scarf or bonnet at night will help keep them intact.
- Regular moisturizing is essential to keep the twists hydrated and healthy as they begin to loc.
Pros:
- Easy to install yourself.
- Can be styled even in the early stages.
- Allows for a structured look as the locs mature.
Cons:
- Twists may unravel, especially when exposed to water, so they require care.
- The locs can take several months to fully lock, depending on hair texture and maintenance routine.
2. Comb Coils
Comb coils are another widely used method for starter locs, especially for those with very coily or kinky hair. A small-toothed comb is used to twist small sections of hair into tight, spiral-like coils. As time progresses, the coils begin to knot and lock into place.
Who It’s For:
Comb coils work best for individuals with tighter curl patterns, particularly types 4B and 4C hair. The method allows for even parting and control, making the locs neat and uniform.
How to Start:
- Wash and Detangle: Start with clean, detangled hair. Use a clarifying shampoo to make sure your hair and scalp are free from product buildup, which will help the coils hold their shape and lock more easily.
- Part Your Hair into Sections: Using a comb, divide your hair into sections according to how thick or thin you want your locs to be. Smaller sections create thinner locs, while larger sections result in thicker locs. Use clips to separate each section.
- Create the Coils: Apply a small amount of styling gel or loc gel to each section. Use a fine-tooth comb to twist the hair, starting at the root. Twist the comb in a circular motion while moving down the strand until the entire section is coiled. The comb will help shape the hair into tight, neat coils.
- Repeat for Each Section: Continue creating coils on each section of hair until your whole head is complete.
- Let the Coils Set: Allow the coils to air dry or use a hooded dryer to set them in place. As time passes, the coils will naturally begin to mat and lock.
Tips:
- Comb coils are prone to unraveling, especially in the early weeks. Avoid over-wetting the hair and try not to manipulate the coils too much during the initial stage.
- Regular maintenance involves palm rolling or retwisting the roots every few weeks to encourage the coils to lock evenly.
Pros:
- Coils can form relatively quickly, depending on the hair texture.
- Great for those who want uniform, small locs.
- Easy to do at home or with a loctician.
Cons:
- Coils can be more delicate and may unravel if not properly maintained.
- If your hair texture is looser (e.g., 3A or 3B), this method may not hold as well without frequent maintenance.
3. Braids (Plaited Locs)
Braiding the hair is another method for starting locs. The hair is divided into sections and braided from root to tip. Over time, the braids begin to mat and tangle, eventually locking into place. Braids tend to take longer to lock than other methods but can provide a distinctive look.
Who It’s For:
Braids work well for those with looser curl patterns or people who want more control over the size and neatness of their locs. This method is ideal for anyone with 3A-4A hair types, although it works for kinkier textures too.
How to Start:
- Clean and Detangle Hair: As always, start with clean hair. Use a clarifying shampoo to remove buildup and follow up with a conditioner to make sure your hair is moisturized but not too slippery, which can make braiding difficult.
- Part Your Hair into Sections: Use a comb to divide your hair into sections, just as you would for other loc methods. The size of the sections determines how thick or thin your locs will be. Use clips or bands to separate the sections and keep them organized.
- Braid Each Section: Starting at the root, braid each section of hair down to the ends. Make sure the braids are firm but not too tight, as this can cause tension and lead to breakage. Keep the braids uniform so your locs will have a consistent size and shape.
- Leave Braids to Lock: Unlike other methods, braids don’t require much additional manipulation. Over time, the braided sections will mat and begin to loc. The braid pattern may remain visible for several months but will eventually blend into the locs as they mature.
- Maintenance: While braids are less likely to unravel, you’ll still need to maintain your roots by either palm rolling or interlocking the new growth every 6-8 weeks, depending on how fast your hair grows.
Tips:
- Braided locs take longer to lock compared to two-strand twists or comb coils, but they offer more control in the early stages.
- Keep your braids moisturized and avoid over-manipulating them to prevent breakage.
Pros:
- Braids are less likely to unravel, making them more durable in the early stages.
- They give a very defined, neat look, especially during the starter phase.
- Hair can be washed early in the process without worrying about unraveling.
Cons:
- Braids take longer to lock compared to other methods.
- The braid pattern can sometimes remain visible even after the locs have matured.
4. Backcombing
Backcombing is a technique often used by people with straighter hair who want to start locs. In this method, a fine-tooth comb is used to push hair toward the scalp, creating a tangled, matted section that will eventually lock. This method is more commonly associated with freeform or semi-freeform locs.
Who It’s For:
Backcombing is ideal for individuals with straighter hair textures (1A-2C). People with wavy or straight hair may find it challenging to start locs with twisting or braiding, making backcombing a better alternative.
How to Start:
- Prep the Hair: Start with clean, dry hair. This method works best on hair that hasn’t been recently conditioned, as too much softness can make it harder for the hair to tangle.
- Section the Hair: Divide your hair into even sections using clips or hair ties. The size of each section will determine the thickness of your locs. Smaller sections will create thinner locs, while larger sections will produce thicker locs.
- Backcomb Each Section: Using a fine-tooth comb, begin at the root of each section and comb the hair backward toward the scalp. This creates tangles and knots, which will eventually form the base of the loc. Continue combing until the entire length of the section is matted.
- Secure the Loc: After backcombing, use a rubber band or tie at the ends of each section to keep the hair in place while it starts to loc.
- Palm Roll (Optional): If you want a smoother look, you can palm roll the locs after backcombing. Roll the loc between your palms in a circular motion to shape it.
Tips:
- Avoid washing your hair for the first few weeks to let the backcombed sections begin to lock.
- After the locs start forming, you can maintain them by palm rolling or interlocking to help them mature.
Pros:
- Allows for more natural-looking locs, especially for those with straight or wavy hair.
- Doesn’t rely on curl pattern, so it works for a wide range of textures.
Cons:
- Can be time-consuming and tedious to install.
- Requires patience, as the locs can take quite a while to fully form.
5. Palm Rolling
Palm rolling is a maintenance technique that can also be used to start locs. In this method, small sections of hair are rolled between the palms to form a cylindrical shape. The rolling helps to encourage the hair to lock in that form over time.
Who It’s For:
Palm rolling works best for people who prefer a neater, more controlled appearance for their starter locs. It's most commonly used on coily and kinky textures (types 3C to 4C), but it can also work for people with looser curls.
How to Start:
- Prepare Your Hair: Begin with clean, damp hair. This method works best on slightly wet hair, as it’s easier to manipulate.
- Section Your Hair: Divide your hair into small sections, depending on how thick or thin you want your locs to be. You can use clips or hair ties to keep the sections organized.
- Start Palm Rolling: Take one section of hair and twist it lightly with your fingers. Place the section between your palms and roll it back and forth in a circular motion. This helps to shape the hair and encourage it to begin locking.
- Repeat: Continue palm rolling each section of hair. The goal is to make the hair conform to a cylindrical shape and encourage it to tangle and loc naturally.
- Retwist as Needed: You’ll need to palm roll your locs every few weeks, especially after washing your hair, to maintain their shape and prevent frizz.
Tips:
- Palm rolling is a gentle technique, so be consistent but avoid over-manipulating the hair to prevent thinning or breakage at the roots.
- Use a lightweight, natural gel or oil to help hold the hair in place while palm rolling.
Pros:
- Creates smooth, cylindrical locs.
- Offers control over the shape and size of the locs.
- Reduces frizz in the early stages.
Cons:
- Requires regular maintenance to keep the shape intact.
- Can result in thinning over time if over-manipulated.
6. Freeform Locs
Freeform locs are the most natural way to start locs, requiring little to no manipulation. The hair is simply left to grow and mat on its own, without regular twisting or parting. Over time, the hair will naturally form into locs, though the locs can vary greatly in size and shape.
Who It’s For:
Freeform locs are ideal for those who prefer a more organic, natural look and don’t want to spend a lot of time maintaining their locs. It’s a popular method among those who follow spiritual or cultural practices where natural hair is a central focus.
How to Start:
- Stop Combing or Brushing: The key to freeform locs is to let your hair tangle and mat naturally. Simply stop combing or brushing your hair. Allow it to grow freely without any major manipulation.
- Wash and Moisturize Regularly: While you don’t comb your hair, it’s important to keep your scalp clean and healthy. Wash your hair with a residue-free shampoo every 1-2 weeks, and use light oils to moisturize your scalp and hair.
- Separate as Needed: Depending on your hair type, your hair may begin to mat together into large sections. If you prefer smaller locs, gently separate these sections by hand after washing to prevent your hair from forming larger, uneven mats.
- Patience: Freeform locs take time to develop and will look different from more structured locs that are twisted or backcombed. Embrace the natural process and enjoy the unique look of your freeform locs.
Tips:
- Freeform locs require very little manipulation, but regular washing and moisturizing are key to keeping your hair healthy during the loc process.
- As your locs form, embrace their individuality. Freeform locs won’t all be uniform, and that’s part of their natural beauty.
How to Start:
- Simply stop combing or brushing your hair. Let it grow and mat naturally, washing and moisturizing as needed.
- Separate the locs by hand if necessary to prevent large sections from matting together.
Pros:
- Requires minimal effort and maintenance.
- Locs form naturally, without the need for frequent twisting or styling.
- Each set of locs is unique to the individual’s hair texture and growth pattern.
Cons:
- The locs can be uneven or unpredictable in size and shape.
- May not be suitable for people who want uniform or neat locs.
7. Interlocking
Interlocking is a method where the ends of the hair are pulled through the root of the loc to form a knot, which helps to secure the loc and prevent unraveling. The interlocking technique can be used for starter locs or to maintain existing locs. It is often done with a specialized tool that helps guide the hair through the roots.
Who It’s For:
Interlocking is perfect for people with thinner hair textures or those with looser curls. It’s also a preferred method for individuals who want to keep their locs neat, as the technique keeps the hair securely locked in place.
How to Start:
- Clean and Section Your Hair: Start with clean, slightly damp hair. Section your hair into the desired loc size, using clips to hold the sections in place. The sections will determine the size and thickness of your locs.
- Thread the Hair: Using an interlocking tool or your fingers, take the end of the sectioned hair and thread it through the root of the loc, creating a knot. You can thread the hair in different directions (north, south, east, west) to create a tighter, more secure loc.
- Repeat the Process: Continue interlocking the hair by threading the ends through the root multiple times, alternating directions to ensure the loc is tight and secure.
- Maintain Regularly: Interlocking is a long-lasting method, but you will need to maintain the locs as they grow. Every 6-8 weeks, you can interlock the new growth to keep the locs looking neat and secure.
Tips:
- Be careful not to interlock too tightly, as this can cause tension at the roots and lead to thinning.
- Interlocking is ideal for people who want smaller locs or who need a more secure method that won’t unravel, even after washing.
Pros:
- Locs are very secure and won’t unravel, even with frequent washing.
- Great for people who want smaller, neater locs.
- Requires less frequent maintenance compared to other methods.
Cons:
- Can cause thinning at the roots if done too tightly or too often.
- May take longer to install compared to other methods.
8. Loc Extensions
For those who don’t want to wait for their locs to grow out, loc extensions can be used to give the appearance of mature locs from day one. These extensions are either synthetic or human hair and are attached to the natural hair, giving the look of fully developed locs. Over time, the natural hair will lock with the extensions, making the transition seamless.
Who It’s For:
Loc extensions are for anyone who wants the appearance of long locs immediately. They are also a great option for people who want to experiment with the loc look without fully committing to the process of growing out their natural locs.
Pros:
- Immediate length and volume without the waiting period.
- Can be styled just like natural locs.
- Allows people to try out locs before fully committing.
Cons:
- Expensive, especially if high-quality human hair is used.
- May feel heavy, particularly with longer extensions.
- Requires a professional to install properly.
Tools You’ll Need for DIY Starter Locs
While starting locs at home doesn’t require a professional toolkit, having a few essential items on hand will make the process smoother:
- Fine-Tooth Comb: Essential for comb coils and parting the hair evenly.
- Clips: Useful for sectioning off parts of your hair as you work through it.
- Loc Gel or Cream: A light gel or cream can help hold your twists or coils in place, particularly for finer or looser hair textures.
- Spray Bottle: Keep your hair damp while working with it by misting it with water.
- Oils: Natural oils like jojoba, argan, or coconut oil help keep your locs moisturized and your scalp healthy.
Starter Locs on Different Types of Hair
Starter Locs on Type 1 (Straight Hair)
For those with straight hair (Type 1), starting locs can be a bit more challenging, as straight hair lacks the natural curl pattern that helps locs form. However, it’s not impossible. The key to success with Type 1 hair is patience and careful selection of the right loc method.
Best Methods for Type 1 Hair:
- Backcombing: Backcombing involves teasing or combing the hair toward the scalp to create knots and tangles that eventually form into locs. This method is particularly effective for straight hair because it gives the hair more texture to grip and hold the loc shape.
- Twist and Rip: This technique involves sectioning the hair, twisting it slightly, and then pulling the ends of the hair in opposite directions to create knots. This method can help straight hair lock more quickly, but it may result in a more textured, less uniform look.
Maintenance Considerations:
- Straight hair is prone to unraveling in the early stages, so regular maintenance is necessary to keep the locs intact.
- Avoid over-washing, as it can slow down the locking process and cause locs to loosen.
- Palm rolling and crocheting can help maintain neatness and speed up the locking process.
Overall, starting locs on Type 1 hair requires patience and persistence, but with the right methods and maintenance, beautiful locs are entirely achievable.
Starter Locs on Type 2 (Wavy Hair)
Wavy hair, or Type 2 hair, is often seen as a middle ground between straight and curly textures. While it’s easier to start locs on wavy hair compared to straight hair, the process can still be slow due to the looser curl pattern.
Best Methods for Type 2 Hair:
- Two-Strand Twists: Twisting two strands of hair together is a common method for starting locs on wavy hair. The natural wave in the hair helps the twists hold their shape, though they may require some maintenance to prevent unraveling.
- Comb Coils: Using a fine-tooth comb to coil small sections of hair is another effective method for starting locs on wavy hair. The comb creates tight coils that, over time, will tangle and form locs.
Maintenance Considerations:
- Wavy hair may take longer to lock than coily or curly hair, so regular retwisting may be necessary in the early stages.
- Wavy hair is prone to frizz, so using natural oils and light moisturizers can help control frizz while keeping the hair hydrated.
- Be cautious of over-manipulating your locs, as wavy hair can be delicate and prone to breakage if handled too frequently.
Though wavy hair may take a bit longer to lock, the end result can be gorgeous, with locs that have a unique, slightly wavy texture.
Starter Locs on Type 3 (Curly Hair)
Curly hair (Type 3) is generally easier to lock compared to straight or wavy hair, thanks to its natural curl pattern, which helps the hair tangle and form locs more quickly. Type 3 hair is characterized by loose to tight curls, making it versatile for different loc methods.
Best Methods for Type 3 Hair:
- Two-Strand Twists: This is a popular method for curly hair, as the curls help the twists hold together and lock faster than in looser hair types. The resulting locs tend to have a uniform, neat appearance.
- Braids: Braiding the hair is another effective method for starting locs on curly hair. While braids take longer to lock, they offer a defined, structured look that many people find appealing.
- Palm Rolling: Palm rolling involves rolling small sections of hair between your palms to encourage them to lock. This method works particularly well for curly hair, as it helps shape the locs while maintaining neatness.
Maintenance Considerations:
- Curly hair locks faster than straighter hair, but frizz can be an issue. Regular maintenance with natural oils and gels can help keep the locs smooth and frizz-free.
- As with all hair types, moisture is key. Use light oils like jojoba or argan oil to keep your locs and scalp hydrated.
- Depending on how tight your curls are, you may need to retwist your locs every 4-6 weeks to maintain their shape.
Type 3 hair offers a quicker and smoother loc process, making it one of the more straightforward hair types for starting locs.
Starter Locs on Type 4 (Coily/Kinky Hair)
Coily or kinky hair (Type 4) is the most ideal for locs because its tightly coiled pattern helps hair mat and tangle naturally. As a result, Type 4 hair locks the fastest and with the least amount of manipulation.
Best Methods for Type 4 Hair:
- Comb Coils: This is one of the most effective methods for starting locs on coily or kinky hair. The tight coils created with a comb easily lock over time, creating uniform locs.
- Two-Strand Twists: Another excellent option for Type 4 hair, as the tight curls help hold the twists in place and lock them quickly.
- Freeform Locs: Many people with Type 4 hair choose to go the freeform route, allowing their hair to naturally mat and lock without much manipulation. This method requires minimal maintenance and offers a unique, individualized look.
Maintenance Considerations:
- While Type 4 hair locks quickly, it can also become dry. Regular moisturizing with water and light oils is essential to prevent breakage and maintain healthy locs.
- Retwisting every few weeks can help keep your locs neat, though those with coily hair often find that their locs require less frequent manipulation.
- Scalp care is important, as the scalp can become dry or itchy during the loc process. Using oils like tea tree or peppermint oil can help soothe the scalp.
Because Type 4 hair locks faster and with less effort, it's the most popular hair type for locs. People with coily or kinky hair often enjoy a more natural and carefree loc journey, with locs forming relatively quickly compared to other hair types.
Starter locs mark the beginning of a meaningful and personal journey for many individuals, whether it's an expression of culture, style, or a commitment to natural hair. While the process of starting locs may require patience and care, the rewards are worth the wait. By choosing the right method for your hair type and staying consistent with maintenance, you can enjoy watching your locs evolve and mature over time. Regardless of the method you choose—whether it's two-strand twists, comb coils, braids, or freeform—starter locs are the foundation of a beautiful, long-lasting hairstyle that reflects your individuality and natural beauty.
